Igitekerezo gisanzwe cyo kwambara ibintu ukunda kenshi. Amasakoshi asanzwe akwiriye iyi ntego. Ni ikintu cyo kwambara gishobora gukoreshwa mu minsi myinshi, ibyumweru cyangwa amezi menshi. Kiba ikintu cyongera ukuboko kwawe n'ahantu hizewe ho kubika ibintu byose ukeneye umunsi umwe. Amasakoshi meza ni ingirakamaro, akoreshwa mu buryo butandukanye, kandi agaragaza imiterere myiza - iyi vange ikwemeza ko udashobora gusa guhuza imyenda itandukanye, ahubwo no kwambara imyaka myinshi igezweho. Ikiruta byose, aya masakoshi ahoraho atanga urugero rwiza rwo kwita ku nshingano no kumenya, kurusha kure cyane ibikoresho bikunze gukoreshwa.
Ariko, kugira ngo wirinde ko utekereza ko ugomba gushora imari mu masashi meza cyane kugira ngo ukomeze, menya ko hari amasosiyete menshi mato ashora imari mu bintu wifuza kugumana iteka ryose. Aya masosiyete 10 akurikira arimo amazina mashya mu nganda z'imideli, ndetse n'amasosiyete mashya ashobora kuba ataragukuruye. Imiterere yabo yonyine - ifite imiterere yihariye kandi ifatika n'imyenda ikurura amaso - irahagije kugira ngo ikurikirwe n'umuntu uwo ari we wese, ariko ibibera inyuma y'umusaruro ni udushya cyane. Aya masashi agizwe n'imyenda yakoreshejwe kandi ikomoka ku mahame mbwirizamuco, inyinshi muri zo zikorwa mu byiciro bito kugira ngo barebe ko uguze kwawe kumva ari ukwawe mu gihe hirindwa umusaruro mwinshi no gusesagura. Kugira ngo basobanukirwe neza iby'ingenzi bya buri kirango, bazasangiza uburyo basobanura uburyo bwo kugumana ubuzima bushingiye ku miterere yabo. Nyamuneka komeza usome mbere yo gushora imari mu isashi yawe ikurikira ukunda.
Dushyiramo gusa ibicuruzwa byatoranijwe n'itsinda ry'abanditsi ba TZR ku giti cyabo. Ariko, niba uguze ibicuruzwa ukoresheje amahuza ari muri iyi nkuru, dushobora kubona igice cy'ibicuruzwa.
Abashinze Advene, Zixuan na Wang Yijia, bashyize imbere iterambere ry’ikirango cyabo. “Twamaze imyaka ibiri tunoza imikorere no gutanga ibicuruzwa byiza kandi byujuje ibisabwa ku giciro cyiza. Turacyariga kandi turakura,” ibi ni ibyatangajwe na Wang ku ikirango cyatangijwe mu 2020. “Dusuzuma byimazeyo ibikorwa byacu byo kubungabunga iterambere ry’ikirango, twibanda ku buzima bwose bw’ibikoresho (harimo kugura, gukora, guteranya no gupakira), aho kwishora mu bisubizo byitwa “iby’icyatsi kibisi”.
Kuri Advene, ibi bivuze kureka gukoresha uruhu rw’abarya ibikomoka ku bimera, bimwe muri byo bishobora kuba birimo ingano nini ya polyurethane. Wang yagize ati: “Duhitamo gukoresha uruhu rw’inka rushobora gupimwa 100% rukomoka ku bicuruzwa by’ibiribwa kugira ngo dukore ibicuruzwa byacu byose by’uruhu, kandi tukabikora mu ruganda rwa Scope C rukora uruhu rwemewe na Leather Working Group, aho 13 gusa ari rwo ruboneka ku isi. Iki cyemezo gihamya ko buri ntambwe, kuva ku ruhu rusanzwe kugeza ku ruhu rwarangiye, yujuje ibisabwa byo hejuru mu kugira ingaruka ku bidukikije no ku rubyaro.”
Izindi ngamba za Advene zirimo gukuraho ikoreshwa ry’ibikoresho bya pulasitiki no gutanga serivisi 100% bya karuboni. Byongeye kandi, Xuan yongeyeho ko igishushanyo mbonera cy’ikirango ubwacyo cyatekerejweho neza. Yagize ati: “Mu gusohora igishushanyo kimwe icyarimwe, aho gukoresha uburyo busanzwe bwo mu bihe by’umwaka, twiha umwanya twe n’abo dukorana kugira ngo tubone ibitekerezo bivuye ku isi ibakikije tudashyizeho gahunda y’umusaruro ikaze. Igitutu gikomeye.”
Natasha “Roop” Fernandes Ikirango cya Anjo giherereye i Manchester gishobora kuba cyaragukuruye kubera igishushanyo cyacyo cy’ubuyapani cyahumetswe na furoshiki, ariko iyi ni imwe mu myambarire Roop yakoze gusa akoresheje imyenda idagurishwa. Anjo yagize ati: “Mu ntangiriro natekerezaga ko ibi byaba ikibazo: uko ubucuruzi bwanjye bwagendaga bukura, nagerageje kugura imyenda ihagije yo gukoresha mu bucuruzi bwanjye. Ariko, hari imyenda myinshi idakenewe, kandi sinshobora kumva impamvu tugomba gukora no gusesagura byinshi.”
Anjo akoresha ubu yakoreye ibintu byihariye, kandi yibanda ku gukoresha uduce twakozwe mu mezi 18 ashize kugira ngo akore indi miterere ye ishimishije, harimo amasakoshi yo mu bwoko bwa messenger n'amasakoshi yo mu rutugu. Yagize ati: “Ingaruka nini mfite ni inkuru y'uko ibikoresho byanjye bizaba bimwe mu byo bakora nibagera mu rugo rwabo rushya.” “Nkunda kwiyumvisha ko isakoshi yanjye izabyina indirimbo zose, amafunguro bazarya, uburyo agace kanjye gashobora gufasha mu gukumira ko umusatsi ugaragara mu maso hawe iyo umuntu ari gukorera mu rugo, kandi nkibwira ko ibyo nkora byose biba bimwe mu byo nkora, Bituma numva nishimiye cyane ubuzima bw'umuntu.”
Izina Merlette ntabwo ari rishya mu myambarire irambye, ariko uwashinze Marina Cortbawi yaguze ubwoko bw'ibicuruzwa by'iyi sosiyete kugira ngo byongeremo amasakoshi y'amaboko muri uyu mwaka. Cortbawi yagize ati: “Twatangiye gukoresha ibikoresho bisanzwe biri mu ikusanyirizo ryacu - bigabanya cyane imyanda - ku masakoshi yacu yose y'imyenda,” yongeraho ko uyu muryango ukoresha imyenda yemewe na OEKO-TEX® (idafite imiti yangiza 100)) kandi wubaha ubukorikori gakondo. “Dukorana n'itsinda ry'abanyabukorikori b'abagore bafite impano mu Buhinde mu gukora amasakoshi y'amaboko (imwe mu myambarire isaba amasaha 100 yo gukora ubukorikori bw'amaboko!).”
Amasakoshi ya Merlette azashyirwa ahagaragara mu buryo bushya n'amabara mashya hakurikijwe ibihe, ari byo masakoshi meza ya buri munsi. Muri ayo masakoshi harimo amasakoshi magufi afite imiterere myiza iboshye, n'amasakoshi y'igikapu yo muri Esipanye yahumetswe n'ubudodo bwa Kantha busangiwe na Cortbawi. “Nizeye ko aya masakoshi ashobora kwambarwa ku manywa na nijoro, mu minsi y'icyumweru no mu mpera z'icyumweru - ibi nibyo mbona abagore bambara mu mihanda ya New York, n'imibereho yanjye nk'umucuruzi n'umubyeyi mushya.”
Kuri Hozen yo muri Los Angeles, uburyo burambye ni ugukoresha ubundi buryo bwo kurya ibikomoka ku bimera mu masakoshi yayo asa n'amavuta nta kwangiza ibidukikije. Uwashinze Rae Nicoletti yavuze ko ibikoresho birimo "amahitamo avuguruye, asubirwamo, kandi ashobora kubora akorwa mu buryo bwitondewe, buboneye kandi budatera ingaruka mbi." Hozen kandi iri mu ikorwa ryayo rito ry'ubwoko bwa hobo, amasakoshi n'ubwoko bwa crossbody. Ikoresheje "uruhu" rwa Desserto cactus, ubu bwoko bukoresha amabara adafite aho ahuriye n'amabara meza.
Nicoletti yagize ati: “Kudashira kw'igihe runaka ntibishobora kuganirwaho.” Yasangije ko Hozen ari umwihariko atari mu gikapu gusa, ahubwo no mu ntambwe zose ziri muri icyo gikorwa. Ibi birimo gukoresha udusanduku two koherezamo ibintu twongera gukoreshwa twa Boox ndetse no gutanga gahunda zo gusana/gusubizamo ibintu kugira ngo abaguzi babone umusaruro mwiza mu gihe cyo kugura.
Nyuma yo gukora mu kigo kinini cy’ubucuruzi imyaka myinshi, Mónica Santos Gil yatangije ikirango cye cya Santos by Mónica mu gihe cyo kwishyira mu kato, agamije kugabanya imideli binyuze mu byiciro bito n’ibishushanyo mbonera byihariye. Gil yagize ati: “Nk’ikigo gito, kwibanda kuri ubu bwoko bw’umusaruro ni bwo buryo bwacu bwo kugenzura neza ububiko bwacu no kugabanya umusaruro urenze urugero,” ku bijyanye n’igishushanyo cye cyiza kandi cy’ubuhanga cyahumetswe n’ubwubatsi bwa nyuma y’igihe cya none n’igishushanyo mbonera cy’imbere. “Koroshya imiterere bifasha gukora ubwoko bw’uburyo bworoshye bwo kureba, ari na wo mushinga njye na Santos dushaka: imiterere yoroshye no gushaka uburyo bwo gutuma iyi miterere ibasha gutanga ishusho yose y’igicuruzwa runaka ndimo gukoraho.”
Byongeye kandi, Mónica's Santos ikoresha uruhu rwa cactus rwakorewe muri Megizike. "[Rurakomeye] kandi ruzatuma ushobora kwishimira isakoshi yawe mu myaka iri imbere," Gil yabivuze kuri ibyo bikoresho. "Igice kimwe cy'uruhu rwa cactus rwacu gishobora kubora, naho ibindi bishobora kongera gukoreshwa. Ingaruka zo kongera gukoreshwa nazo ni nto cyane kuko zikoresha ibintu bitari uburozi."
Wilglory Tanjong yatangije Anima Iris mu 2020. Iki kigo cyubahiriza inkomoko ye muri Kameruni kandi cyiyemeje kuvugurura imiterere y’akataraboneka izwi cyane. Kuri Tanjong, uyu murimo urimo gukorana n’abanyabukorikori i Dakar no gushaka ibikoresho bivuye ku bacuruzi bo muri Senegali bo mu gace k’iwabo. Igishushanyo cya Anima Iris cyavuyemo kirimo igishushanyo cyiza cyane gifite imiterere, amabara n’imiterere myiza.
Iyi kompanyi ikoresha uruhu rwiza mu ruhererekane rwayo rw’amasakoshi rukurura amaso kandi yiyemeje iterambere rirambye mu gihe cyose cyo gukora, igenzura ko gukora ibicuruzwa bitazigera bibangamira isi n’abayituye. “Kugira ngo dusohoze inshingano zacu zo guteza imbere iterambere rirambye, twashyizeho uburyo bwo kudasesagura imyanda mu gihe cyose cyo gukora,” ibi byavuzwe n’uruganda rwa Anima Iris. “Ibi byemeza ko nta bihangano bibiri bisa, kandi ko nta bikoresho bipfa ubusa.”
Yatangijwe na Loddie Allison mu 2020, Porto ikurikiza filozofiya y'uko "ibito ni byinshi", itangirana n'uburyo bwo gushushanya isakoshi imwe (nibura ubu): isakoshi ifite imigozi ibiri. Imiterere yayo ni yoroshye kandi igezweho, irimo ibintu by'ubwiza gakondo bw'Abayapani. Alison yagize ati: "Impamvu yacu yaturutse kuri Wabi-Sabi, filozofiya nize kuri nyogokuru." Porto yubaha kandi yubaha uko abona isi."
Ku bijyanye n'ibikoresho, Porto ikorana n'inganda n'inganda zikora mu ruhu za Nappa, ikoresheje uruhu rwa Nappa n'ipamba ry'umwimerere. Alison yongeyeho ati: “Iyi koleri yakozwe n'intoki muri Tuscany, kandi twibanda ku musaruro muto kandi ugenda buhoro, dushobora gushyigikira abanyabukorikori mu gihe tunagabanya ingaruka ku bidukikije.”
Umushushanyi Tessa Vermeulen yemera ko "kubungabunga ibidukikije" byahindutse ijambo rikunzwe cyane mu kwamamaza, ariko ikirango cye cyo mu mujyi wa London cyitwa Hai ni uruganda rukora amasakoshi ya silike rudasaza kandi ruhenze. Mu kwita ku mikorere yo gukora no kwibanda ku kwirinda gukora cyane, iki kigo cyubahiriza ibyo cyiteze. Vermeulen yagize ati: "Muri Hai, tugerageza gukora ibintu ushobora kwambara no gukusanya igihe kirekire. Ibi ntibiterwa gusa n'imiterere isanzwe, ahubwo ni uko ibintu byacu byose bikoresha imyenda ya silike. Ku giti cyanjye, ndatekereza ko icy'ingenzi ari ugushaka gusa ibihangano uzatunga igihe kirekire."
Vermeulen yakuriye hagati y'Ubuholandi n'Ubushinwa. Yavuze ko yaguze ubudodo muri Suzhou maze abukora mu "bunini buto cyane", bituma "ubusabe bugena umusaruro ukurikira." Muri iki gihe, ubwoko bwa Hai (bivuze mu gishinwa cya Mandarin) burimo imifuka yo ku bitugu, imitako yo hejuru ifite imitako y'umugano, imifuka ikozwe mu migozi, n'ibindi bikoresho by'inkweto n'imyenda.
Ni mu 2021, kandi ushobora kuba ufite urukurikirane rw'amasakoshi ashobora kongera gukoreshwa ushobora kuyagurisha mu iduka ry'ibiribwa, isomero cyangwa ku isoko ry'abahinzi, ariko June ni ikirango gishya cy'amasakoshi yoroheje gikwiye kwishyurwa. Umwanya. "Intego yanjye ni ugukora ikirango kizwi cyane kizwi nka 'amasakoshi ashobora kongera gukoreshwa'," uyu ni Janean Mann washinze, washyize Junes mu mwanya we nk'"ikirango cy'impuhwe kigamije gufasha abagore bo muri Megizike." Ikirango "kubera umusaruro wacyo cyahaye akazi ikigo cy'abagore gusa cyo kudoda-muri Juarez.
Ariko, uretse gushyigikira uyu muryango, June anagira ingaruka ku mwenda wayo bwite wa Bio-Knit, ufite amabara menshi kandi agaragara. Mann yagize ati: “Turimo gukora umufuka ushobora kubora burundu utazabaho iteka ryose mu myanda cyangwa mu nyanja. Dukoresheje uyu mwenda mushya, dushobora gufunga burundu uruziga no gukuramo pulasitiki ku butaka neza.” Ubwo yasobanuraga ubu buryo budasanzwe, imifuka ya Junes yatangiye gukoresha umwenda wakozwe mu macupa ya pulasitiki yasubiwemo iterwamo CiCLO. “Uyu mushinga wemerera mikorobe karemano zo mu myanda no mu mazi yo mu nyanja kurya fibre mu minsi 60, bityo umufuka ushobora kubora burundu ugasubizwa ku butaka. Ingaruka ni uko umwenda uva ku butaka umaze gukoreshwa, ugatwara pulasitiki, bitabaye ibyo izi pulasitiki zishobora gukoreshwa na wo hafi iteka ryose.”
Isakoshi ya Asata Maisé ishobora kuba imwe mu myambarire igoye cyane kuri uru rutonde, ariko rwose irakwiye kugeragezwa. Yakozwe n'umuhanga mu by'ibishushanyo mbonera wa Delaware Asata Maisé Beeks, ubwiza bw'uruhererekane rw'izina ry'iyi shusho bukomoka ku gukoresha ibikoresho byakoreshejwe, bivanze mu buryo bwihariye, budasanzwe. Bixie yasangije porogaramu ye ya mudasobwa, maze umuhanga mu by'ibishushanyo mbonera yemeje aya mahitamo yagenwe. “Gushyira mu bikorwa ni kimwe mu bintu byanteye imbaraga mu gushushanya.”
Beek ubu ayobora ikigo gito kandi ahora asohora icyegeranyo cye. “Nanjye ndi umuvugizi w’imideli igenda buhoro n’imideli yakozwe n’intoki,” uyu mushushanyi ukiri muto yagize ati: “Ibikoresho byose, harimo n’amasakoshi, bishobora kugurwa nyuma y’uburyo burambye bwo guhanga.” Niba ushishikajwe no kugura isakoshi yawe bwite ya Asata Maisé, Beeks akugira inama yo kwiyandikisha ku rutonde rwe rw’abazayimuzanira, cyane cyane ko itsinda ritaha rizahagera mbere y’uyu mwaka w’impeshyi.
Igihe cyo kohereza: Kanama-23-2021